Tripura is a land of unparalleled history, fables, culture that incorporates diverse tribal traditions, unique handicrafts, abundant biodiversity (it has the largest diversity of primates in the country), and yes — a culinary gem that is waiting to be explored, devoured and popularised. I believe it’s a travesty to the culinary offerings of the state, for not finding the sort of patronage that they truly deserve — given their complete profile, and ticking all the boxes of nutrition, taste and variety.
Before I dive into the gastronomic profile and heritage of the state, it’s vital that we first understand the beginnings of the region and its rich history and traditions. According to ‘Rajmala’, Tripura’s celebrated court chronicles, an ancient king namer ‘Tripur’ ruled over the territorial domain known as Tripura and the name of the kingdom was derived from his name. Many researchers explain the name ‘Tripura’ from its etymological tradition, being a compound of two separate words, ‘Tui’ (water) and ‘Pra’ (near), which in totality means ‘near water’.
The geographical location of the state and its close proximity to the vast water resources of eastern Bengal, coupled with the generic identity of the state’s original inhabitants as ‘Tipra’ or ‘Twipra’ apparently justify this explanation of the state’s name. Tripura is considered to be one of the oldest princely states of ancient India, with the rulers of Tripura reported to have descended from ‘Yayati’ of the Lunar Dynasty of the Mahabharata.
From the 7th century when the Tripura kings ruled from Kailashahar in North Tripura — they used “Pha” as their title; “Pha” in Tripuri means “father” or “head”. In the 14th century, the kings of Tripura adopted the “Manikya” title and shifted their capital to Udaipur (formerly Rangamati) on the banks of the River Gomti. The dynasty at its height controlled a large swathe of the North-East of the Indian subcontinent.
After coming under British influence in 1809, they transitioned from feudal monarchs into rulers of a princely state, maintaining control of the region until 1949. During the 19th century we also see ‘Agartala’ becoming the capital of the state — which it remains to the day. After India’s independence, the princely state of Tripura was merged with the Union of India on 15th October 1949, it became a Union Territory in 1956, and attained the status of a full-fledged state on 21st January 1972.
A significant historical footprint generally results in a sublime culinary journey as well — and that’s exactly the case with Tripura. Let’s start-off with ‘Bhangui’, a beloved traditional dish from Tripura, it is a culinary treasure that embodies simplicity and authentic flavours.
This delightful creation involves the gentle art of boiling sun-dried rice with the aromatic notes of ginger, the earthy richness of onion, and the subtle richness of ghee, all beautifully cocooned within a tender banana leaf.
This time-honoured preparation not only captivates the palate but also reflects the cultural richness of Tripura’s culinary traditions. ‘Gudok’, is among thefavourite indigenous dishes in Tripura, it stars fermented fish called ‘Berma’, which is made from Puthi or Swamp barb fish (it is found in multiple key dishes from the region) beans, and potatoes — a flavourful centrepiece at community gatherings and celebrations, particularly cherished among tribal communities.
‘Mui Borok’ is another local delight that also uses ‘Berma’ it’s a highly nutritious dish that is cooked without oil and has a distinctive salty and spicey flavour. Here I must mention ‘Mui Pengmani’, a form of cooking food without oil, and with minimum spices, this technique of cooking is very healthy and is ideal food to cure sick people and gain back strength.
‘Awandru’ is a stellar dish prepared by the Borok people or the Tiprasas, it can be prepared using different ingredients such as yellow peas, bamboo shoots, mushrooms, snails etc. Its main ingredients are rice powder slurry and crushed garlic which is added just few seconds before turning the stove off.
The Tiprasas are fond of eating, and hence unique ways of cooking food were invented, and one such unique technique is ‘Maidul’ — in this the leftover rice is shaped into rice balls the other day, which is then chargrilled and eaten for breakfast with Mosodeng (chutney). Our traditional culinary journey continues with ‘Kosoi Bwtwi’, often prepared as a side dish with rice, typically made with French beans and can be prepared with or without oil.
A key ingredient is fermented dried fish, known as ‘Berma’ in the Tripuri language, with the vegetarian versions integrating tofu or paneer. An ancient dish from the state, and one that’s steeped in history is ‘Wahan Mosdeng’ — originally made with wild meat, it now features chicken and other meats. The marination involves garlic, ginger, turmeric, and mustard oil. The meat is then grilled to perfection over charcoal, resulting in a flavourful and tender delight, showcasing Tripura’s culinary heritage.
The amalgamation of flavours by the state’s cuisine is displayed through ‘Panch Phoron Tarkari’, a vegetarian dish featuring a blend of five spices (panch phoron) and various vegetables, often including brinjal, pumpkin, and potatoes — it’s a dish thats deeply influenced by the Bengali cuisine.
The state’s unique tribal community offerings are visible through ‘Chakhwi’ — it originated as a custom within the Tiprasa (Tripuri) community and is cooked during social ceremonies like weddings. It typically includes bamboo shoots, meat, and a unique ingredient called Khar (made from banana peel ashes) or baking soda, which is used to create a specific flavour profile, with rice powder (Aayong) being a key ingredient for thickening. The culinary genius of the state is also exhibited by ‘Mosdeng Serma’, a cherished dish that is much more than just a spicy tomato chutney. It’s a perfect accompaniment to various meat dishes and steamed rice. This recipe embodies the simplicity and rich flavours of the region. Soaked dry red chilies infuse a delightful heat — the traditional Mosdeng Serma often includes Berma, (dried fish) for an extra layer of complexity.
Comfort and simplicity are also the highlights of the region’s food, these are showcased through ‘Mach Bhat’ (fish and rice), the fish is typically marinated with turmeric, along with other spices, before being cooked in a light curry and served with rice.
Turmeric is a common spice in Tripura cuisine, adding flavour, colour and health benefits to a variety of dishes. For the satisfaction of the very important sweet palate, Tripura delivers quite convincingly through classic dishes like ‘Kheertua’ — a milk-based dessert, similar to the omnipresent Rasmalai but with a longer, oblong — shaped chhena (cottage cheese). The chhena is immersed in thickened milk, often compared to the famous Rabri or Rabdi, which is sometimes flavoured with cardamom, saffron, or pistachios. The absolutely delicious and popular ‘Awan Bangwi’ is a unique rice cake made with sticky rice, often mixed with cashews and raisins, and steamed in banana leaves, or other leaves like those of Lairu (leaves of wild turmeric plant).
The dish is considered a special treat, particularly among the Tiprasa community — which forms a significant portion of Tripura’s population. Discussions on sweets are incomplete without mentioning the divine tasting ‘Matabari Peda’, it is prepared from the ‘Pindi’ variety of khoya (milk solids or evaporated milk solids) along with sugar.
This type of khoya has a smooth and homogenous body, and a fine-grained texture that is generally free from burnt particles and browning defects. It is a revered prasad at temples, like that of Mata Tripura Sundari — this sweet also has a higher shelf life because of its low moisture content.
We always say, eat and drink, and when it comes to the latter, the state accords a lot of significance to it — underscoring a fine culinary balance. Tripura’s traditional beverages include a variety of rice-based alcoholic drinks, with ‘Chuwarak’ and ‘Bwtwk’ being the most prominent. Chuwarak, often compared to scotch or champagne, is a distilled spirit made from rice, jackfruit, or pineapple, sometimes with local ingredients like Thakotor (leaves of the Senna Tora plant) and Tokhiseleng (curry leaves). Bwtwk, also known as Chuak, is a fermented rice beer that is often cloudy, mildly sweet, and with an earthy aroma.
To complete a strong link — we have ‘Gora’ an undistilled rice beverage from the state, it’s the product of the initial unrefined stage of the traditional Tripuri rice beer — before it might be distilled to create Chuak or Langi. It is important to note that these beverages hold deep cultural and social significance, particularly during festivals and celebrations, and are a critical part of the state’s culinary repertoire.
As I complete my piece on Tripura, I cannot emphasise enough, that I’m blown away by it — it’s a comprehensive culinary package that delivers on all parameters that a cuisine is judged on — taste, flavours, variety and imbibing local produce and elements. I believe that our children and youth need to be increasingly exposed to the state’s gastronomic profile.
I’m confident that once this happens, we will see much greater circulation and consumption of this dynamic and hidden jewel, whose footprint deserves to be expanded!
(The writer is Secretary, Cuisine India Society. Views are personal)